Happy Hallo-weiner

Wishing you a Happy Halloween!!!






(Miss Maya is doing quite well living it up with Erin)

In Memory of Bertie

On Friday, we joined several PCVs and staff in the village of Hopkins for a ceremony held in honor of Bertie, a fellow volunteer and friend who passed away last month. The school dedicated the library she spent so much time on, in her name. This library was an extremely important project to Bertie and will now continue on in her name as a tribute to her commitment and dedication to providing reading material for the children of Hopkins.

Our trip to Hopkins began with a visit to Janine in Dangriga, where we got to see the teacher resource center she has created in the District Education Center - it's really incredible, Janine has really worked hard and done a great job. We headed out early in the morning to catch a bus to the Hopkins junction where we awaited our transport from Peace Corps into the village. With the recent rains and flooding, no one was sure what we'd be facing on the roads - but it wasn't too bad, just a few pockets of deep water to drive through.



While we waited for the ride, a group of tourists happened to stop to figure out a plan since they were unable to visit the sites they hoped due to flooding. While sitting in their hotel van, one man noticed a tarantula under Ginnie's foot. He came out and said "if you don't like tarantulas, don't step back." Then the vans emptied as the group came to check out the big spider. We'd already taken some photos, but we couldn't help but get a shot of the tourists taking pics of the tarantula. That guy was a hit for sure!

Before the ceremony was to begin, we headed over to Innies for breakfast where we made a new friend. He enjoyed sitting with Nicole and then running around the dining room for Anthony to chase him.



The ceremony itself was a beautiful memorial and dedication to Bertie's work at the village primary school and was filled with stories shared by her students, some PCVs, and remarks by villagers and PC staff. Children performed cultural dances and sang Garifuna songs, while others played the traditional Garifuna drums. It was a beautiful tribute to a remarkable woman. At the close of the ceremony, the library was officially dedicated in Bertie's name and will now be called "Miss Bertie's Library." We also had plaques made by a local artist with a dedication to her in the Garifuna name the children called her, "Dunuru," meaning bird. This was a joyous service to honor Bertie and we are so glad we could be there. She definitely made an impact on everyone she met and we all are lucky to have known her.

Following the ceremony, our APCD (Project Manager), Austin, drove us over to check out Hopkins Bay Resort. The resort is a compound of about 50 ginormous houses in groups of 9-10 all surrounding small pools and overlooking the Caribe Sea. Stepping onto the lush landscaped grounds with cobblestone walkways was like entering a whole new place altogether. It almost felt like we were no longer in Belize; it's very strange to have such an elaborate resort right next to a village. It almost seems like tourists who stay here cannot truly know this country.

Below is a picture of the sea, which lies opposite Miss Bertie's library

Los Minutos en Cuerpo de Paz, Belice

When living in a different culture, certain things begin as novelties, but gradually become part of everyday life. We will occasionally encounter those moments when it really hits us that we are in a whole new world and will now share these moments with our beloved readers. We also just have moments that are really great, inspiring, frustrating, upsetting, amazing, etc. that we want to record since they will always be a part of our life’s journey and inevitably help to make us who we are as we grow each day!

The silly-ness:

While walking down the street with the umbrella, a man rode by on his motor-scooter and ducked under the umbrella (similar occurrences with bikes happen as well).

A comment by a woman as Ginnie walked by on a rainy morning in her work clothes and pink with hearts rain boots: “I like see how you dress up, miss!” with a big smile.

Another day walking with those same boots just around the corner from the house, a man slowly drove over a speedbump and pointed to the boots with a smile and gave a thumbs up.

During a volleyball tournament in which St. Luke’s was competing, an Infant I student (about 5 years old) “danced” atop the bleachers as she sang aloud “Don’t you wish your girlfriend was hot like me” as Anthony sat nearby.

Just yesterday, two pikni (Robert and Lindy) had this conversation with Ginnie:
Robert: Miss, who did you vote for? The Honorable Dean Barrow or...?
Ginnie: I can't vote in Belize elections. I vote in America and just mailed in my ballot for the elections coming up.
Robert: Did you vote for the rock obam?
Ginnie: Barack Obama. Do you know who else is running?
Lindy: The president of the United States!
Ginnie: That's George W. Bush. He can't run this time it is someone else. Do you know what he looks like?
Lindy & Robert in unison: He's white!
Lindy: With white hair. And a black shirt!
And there you have it - American politics from Belizean children

Signs -just all the street signs, store signs, labels on items, etc; there is often comic relief in just "interpreting" these signs.

The everyday:

The meat pie man and dukunu lady riding by on their bikes and food carts. In the morning, we hear "meat pie, meat pie" as the man rides down the street. Later in the afternoon it's, "dukunuuuu, dukunu with meeeeat" when the lady comes by. It's quite wonderful, despite not liking either dish. Well, dukunu is okay, but it's just a lot of corn mush at once. Quick aside - Is not dukunu with meat a tamale? Though she did previously say "Tamaleeees! Dukunuuuu!"

Women breastfeeding next to us on the bus and everywhere else – it’s such a cultural norm, we don’t even notice it anymore.

The moms breastfeeding during our support group meetings and activity sessions or classes. The first time, I just didn’t know what to do, now we just keep right on going (though I have no idea how this will work during my yoga session coming up soon…).

“Miss/Sir, please a shilling?” as asked by pikni

“Taxi!” as we walk anywhere; or, a particular favorite – the taxi man shrugging up his shoulders and hands to us as if to say “what do you want?” when in actuality he is asking “taxi?” Another neighborhood driver asking us if we wanted a taxi, after which we replied “no thanks,” he says, “Dat’s ahrait man. Ai see, you tek da two wheel drive today!” Yes, we'd be walking to the shop today :)

"Miss Geenay" as I walk in the neighborhood or come into school (often accompanied by a big hug!)

Students running up and practically knocking you over the veranda as they hug and squeeze you as if it's been a lifetime since they'd seen you

The things we hear:

“Right now!” – which means “just a sec” if you really break it down and is Ginnie’s new favorite!

“Mek ai see/show you/try…” – which means "let me… "

“I neve kno-ah” – which is best when actually heard and means “I didn’t know”

“miss, miss, miss” or “sir, sir, sir” – kids like to call this repeatedly in class; we’re working with the teachers to reduce it so they learn to just raise their hands politely and wait to be called on. I think the funniest example was one day in Standard I last year when Ginnie did a lesson and the kids got so excited to answer (I bring treats) they not only shouted “miss, miss,…” they came up to me with their hands raised all crowding around – how I wanted to laugh, but instead just called on a quiet, lee bwai who followed directions and raised his hand and stayed in his seat. We can laugh now :)

“No-ah!” – "no," but with the best accent

“Miss, you sound like us!” – this I heard in my recent Club GLOW meeting when I needed to get their attention to move onto a next activity. Apparently my accent when I said “Hello” was very Kriol.

“next” – when used in Kriol it really is about another of something; we have adopted this into our daily lingo and I think it will stay. For example: “You want one next one? (You wah wahn nex wahn?)"

Fruit lady, Ms. Rosa, at our favorite market stand telling us about avocado ripening: “Two days” turned out she had made a perfect prediction as our avocado was perfectly ripened just as she promised

As Anthony hurried out of his office, closing the door behind him, albeit very slowly (parents nearby are in wait to register children for school), he overhears, "Ahhh!!! My fingers!!!" That'll teach you to rest your fingers in active door jams :) After apologizing and asking if there was anything he could do to help (ice, etc.) the man requested rubbing alcohol. Have we mentioned the rubbing alcohol myth before? For some unknown reason some believe rubbing alcohol to be the be all and end all in cures for the flu, cuts, bruises, fainting, snake bites, insect bites, headaches...you name it! When someone falls ill, passes out, etc. everyone reaches for the bottle of rubbing alcohol. Actually our first aid kit at school, or at least the paper bag we label as such, contains a bottle of this fine ointment and that's all. Hopefully it will stop all of the bleeding in time so that no bandages are necessary. :)

Just really cool moments:

When we finally received our absentee ballots, Ginnie was really excited and so was her principal because she wanted to see what an American ballot looks like. I showed it to her and we talked about the different categories – she was so interested in the county elections and senate, too. She was surprised to see so many candidates for president since she’s only heard about Obama and McCain. Also, our school warden and I had a nice conversation about the recent debates and her thoughts on who should win and who she would vote for. It was one really cool moment and I get to learn more about Belize’s elections in the process, too!

The teachers joking with us every day; we are definitely integrated into our schools now and have a lot of silly conversations on top of the serious ones.

Moleisha, Lindy, Summer – three of Ginnie's students who I just love – they love to talk with me and tell me stories. Here’s a recent conversation with Lindy “Miss, my skin is turning white like you” (he has a pigment thing where he has lighter areas); I pointed out how my freckles are a pigmentation thing and make me get the little brown spots so he said “You are turning to dark like me and I am turning to light like you!” It was just adorable and he is too cute. He’ll talk to me for an entire day if given the chance, I am pretty sure of it! And then there is Moleisha with her hugs and Summer’s infectious laugh – she gave me directions to her house: “It’s just over so and then turn so and so!”

The delicious treats delivered by our adopted mom (but really, we think of the whole family as our fourth host family in a way!) – she makes the best powda bun in Belize, I am convinced of that and she has said she will teach me (though I’m gonna wait for a few more months so she keeps sending over hers!).

The not so fantastic:

Going to the store to find a favorite item is just no longer there – and then not being able to get it for months or more (like brown rice – weh di go ahn! We now pay sooo much for brown rice; we have to really cut back on how often we make rice dishes)

Having your long skirt get caught in the chain of the beach cruiser – man it stinks! One day the left side somehow made it into the chain, which is on the right! I was just turning onto a busy road so not an inconvenient location or anything :) I got myself to the sidewalk in front of a shop where we will go for things on occasion and where a delivery was being made at the moment. As I assessed the situation to determine how I could get it out without a tear (I mean, I only have so many skirts here, clothes are precious, I can’t just replace them!), I was gaining an audience and as I maneuvered myself to try to not fall and get the chain to move backwards, a delivery person came over to help. I was embarrassed, but pretty grateful to the people offering suggestions and the help of the delivery person! I imagine they got a good laugh out of it after I passed ;)

Sudden downpours as you ride your bike home – one day it hit so hard, Ginnie's skirt was soaked and getting so heavy that it was harder to peddle, not to mention the wind coming right at my face!!! Anthony gets soaked with mud all on his pants and somehow it has sprayed up all over his shirts – and he had the one time when it began to downpour and his chain decided it was the perfect time to pop off!

Open sewage system – and that should really be self-explanatory

Miscommunication due to the non-direct nature of many people. And, while we do love to be laidback, there are some things we really need to not be laid back about sometimes.

Corporal punishment – we accept that it is part of the culture; we just wish it wouldn’t happen in front of us.

Floods – in the streets and in our drainage because it causes the toilet not to work, making it seem as though sometimes indoor plumbing isn’t the best option since when it doesn’t work it’s not pretty!

Here's the best part - it's all pretty amazing! We could just keep adding to this with new and remembered moments! Just to live and work among the beautiful people of Belize and to get to experience a whole new world is worth all of it. "Land of the Free by the Caribe Sea." Plus, they never said it would be easy, it is "the toughest job you'll ever love."

Visiting the Stone Maiden

Atop El Castillo

A couple weeks ago, we headed west to Cayo for a lee getaway in celebration of Ginnie's birthday. We love visiting San Ignacio (the district town of Cayo district and often referred to as Cayo) because it is among the mountains and has some of the best food in Belize!

Having lived here for 15 months, we had still not visited the ruins at Xunantunich, so we decided this was the time to do so. As you may be able to tell from our travels, we enjoy visiting Maya ruins! Anyway, Xunantunich (pronounced zshoo-NAN-too-NEECH - can you tell we work with phonics?) is interpreted as "Maiden of the Rock," "Stone Maiden," or "Stone Lady," depending what you read. The ruins are fairly small (in comparison to other sites we've visited) and are located near the border. Its tallest structure, El Castillo, is the second tallest in Belize (after the Caana Pyramid at Caracol, another site we plan to visit at some point) at 130 feet. For Mayans, this is pretty tall, according to sources we've read and the sites we've seen. The fact it is built on a hill adds to its height and the incredible views you can see from the top. For whatever reason, we keep climbing to the top of these things, though this was far less scary than some others since it was not as steep and skinny on the top (really, how could we not climb them?)! We could see all over the area and into Guatemala, as well as many beautiful views of the surrounding mountains and hillsides.

Here are some views of El Castillo and from El Castillo

Looking out over the ruins from the top of El Castillo with Oso de Paz

Being that the portion of the site that is excavated is small, we enjoyed a leisurely morning just hanging out in the museum reading about the site and then in the plaza listening to the howler monkeys, and watching the toucans and a stray dog who was chasing butterflies and some crawling burrowing critters. Since there were only two other visitors to the park, we basically had the place to ourselves, which we feel is a nice way to see the sites. When we visited Chichen Itza in 2004 there were so many people around we couldn't take pictures without having strangers in them!

Just hangin' out in the plaza

Traveling to Xunantunich is part of the fun, too. We hopped on a Benque bus and got off a few miles down the road at San Jose Succotz where we took a hand-cranked ferry across the Mopan River. A BDF soldier got on the ferry with his pickup truck and offered us a ride up to the entrance (which is a 1-mile uphill trip so that was pretty awesome). Unfortunately, he was gone when it was time to return, but the walk downhill was not bad and it was becoming increasingly overcast as rains headed in so it was not as hot (and it's shaded by many trees).

The friendly ferry hand-cranker man


This guy was just hanging out by the ferry

We learned that Xunantunich has a connection to our days in "the valley" (that's the San Fernando Valley for those of you who didn't realize it). The Getty Conservation Institute and UCLA archaeologists worked together on a project studying Xunantunich to see how the climate effected the site. Here is some more interesting information about the site.

In addition to the ruins, we had a nice relaxing night at Martha's Guesthouse where we'd stayed on our first trip to Cayo back in our first month here. Martha and her husband are two of the nicest people and we enjoy staying with them when we can. We also met up with a Stonehill student who is living in Cayo for 15 weeks as an intern at the hospital and had a nice dinner at Erva's. We'd not yet eaten there and heard it was a must-visit. It was so good and our server, Guillermo, was really friendly so we had a nice long chat with him, as well. Ginnie had the biggest burrito, yet, and Anthony had a good chicken sandwich. It's always nice to have a change from rice and beans! Though, I guess we are supposed to try Erva's rice and beans, we just don't feel like eating that when we go out since we want to have something different... :)

That's a big burrito and I ate it all (though, it is rather skinny, so that's a good thing for calories)

We also hit our favorite bakery before leaving for the ruins and had some delicious treats - cinnamon swirl, apple turnover, and a whole wheat German muffin (not really knowing what it is, but it tasted sort of like a banana muffin without the banana). It does appear we talk about food fairly often, which we find common among PCVs. Must have something to do with limited diets and such!

It was a really fun weekend, and reminded us we need to get out of our site more frequently to take a break and see more of Belize while we can! We really need to get up north soon!